A Guide to Civita di Bagnoregio: Italy’s Dying Town
Civita di Bagnoregio is a historic village in central Italy, known for its distinctive hilltop location and long cultural history. Over the centuries, it has remained a quiet settlement shaped by its landscape, architecture, and past, making it a notable destination in central Italy.
Civita di Bagnoregio is a small historic village in central Italy, known for its dramatic setting and limited access. Often referred to as Italy’s Dying Town, it is built on a fragile tuff hill that has been eroding for centuries. Despite its size, this remarkable village in Lazio attracts over 700,000 visitors each year from around the globe. It stands as a living monument to 2,500 years of Etruscan, Roman, and medieval history: a place where time itself seems to have paused.
What is Civita di Bagnoregio and why is it called the “Dying Town”?
The evocative name "Dying Town" comes from writer Bonaventura Tecchi, who spent his formative years here. It reflects an unforgiving geological reality: the village sits atop a hill of volcanic tuff that faces constant erosion from two local streams, rain, and wind. This erosion process, which began millennia ago, steadily threatens the village's stability.
The town was established around 2,500 years ago by the Etruscans and became one of the principal centers of the Tuscia region throughout various periods of prosperity and decline. In recent decades, significant stabilization efforts have transformed Civita from a genuine ghost town into a thriving destination for travelers seeking authentic experiences.
Today, only about a dozen permanent residents call Civita home, yet this very precariousness is what makes the village so compelling. It is a place where beauty and fragility coexist, inviting visitors to contemplate impermanence, human perseverance, and our connection to the natural world.
Where is Civita di Bagnoregio located?
Civita di Bagnoregio sits in northern Lazio, in the province of Viterbo, close to the borders of Umbria and southern Tuscany. Nestled within the Calanchi Valley (positioned between Lake Bolsena to the west and the Tiber Valley to the east) the village is part of the municipality of Bagnoregio.
Though technically in Lazio, Civita naturally fits into travel itineraries exploring southern Tuscany and the Maremma, thanks to its proximity and shared Etruscan heritage with the region's many tuff-built villages.
How do you get to Civita di Bagnoregio?
Reaching Civita is an experience in itself, designed entirely around pedestrian access.
- By car: the most practical option. Take the A1 motorway toward Rome and exit at Orvieto, then follow signs through Castiglione Teverina to Bagnoregio. Park your car and walk toward the bridge. A shuttle service (€2 return) runs from Piazzale Battaglini to the Belvedere viewpoint for those who prefer not to walk.
- On foot: the only way to enter the village is via a reinforced concrete pedestrian bridge spanning approximately 300 meters across the valley, offering spectacular views throughout the crossing. The walk from the parking area to the village entrance takes about 10–15 minutes. No motorized vehicles are permitted within the medieval walls.
- By public transport: possible but less convenient. Regional COTRAL buses connect Orvieto or Viterbo train stations to Bagnoregio, where you'll complete the journey on foot.
Entry to the village requires a ticket (€5), which directly supports ongoing restoration and conservation work essential to preserving this heritage site.
What to see in Civita di Bagnoregio?
The village is small and can be explored comfortably in 2-4 hours. Porta Santa Maria is the sole gateway to the historic center. This medieval entrance, topped with sculptured lions crushing human figures opens onto a maze of charming alleyways.
- Piazza San Donato: the village's central square, anchored by the Romanesque Church of San Donato. Inside you'll find a wooden Crucifix from the Donatello school and a fresco attributed to the Perugino school.
- Palazzo Alemanni: a Renaissance structure housing the Geological Museum and the Museum of Landslides. The exhibits explain the natural forces that shaped and continue to threaten the village, deepening your appreciation of Civita's remarkable story.
- Medieval and Renaissance homes: scattered throughout the village with their characteristic features: delicate balconies, external staircases, small stone arches, and courtyards draped in ivy and flowers. Each corner reveals another piece of history.
- Grotto of San Bonaventura: an ancient Etruscan chamber tomb carved directly from the rock. According to legend, Saint Francis healed the young Giovanni di Fidanza at this spot; he later became Friar Bonaventura and biographer of the Saint of Assisi.
- Porta Santa Maria: the original gate, beautifully preserved with its distinctive carved lions in the stone, remnants of a popular revolt by Civita's residents against the ruling aristocratic family.
- Panoramic viewpoints: the vistas across the Valle dei Calanchi from the village's edges are breathtaking, especially magical at sunset. The Belvedere at the foot of the village is the perfect place for photography.
- Local artisan shops and cafés: intimate spaces where you can taste regional products and enjoy simple, authentic meals made from local ingredients.
Is Civita di Bagnoregio worth visiting?
Absolutely. Civita di Bagnoregio is worth visiting not only for its beauty, but for the emotions it evokes. It is a place that invites reflection on time, impermanence, and the relationship between humans and nature.
For travelers interested in:
- Medieval towns and architecture
- Etruscan history
- Slow travel and photography
- Off-the-beaten-path Italy
Civita offers a rare and meaningful experience.
Visiting Civita di Bagnoregio responsibly
Civita's geological fragility demands a thoughtful approach to tourism. Your entrance fee directly funds the restoration and conservation work that keeps this heritage alive. Visitors are asked to honor the village's peaceful character and minimize resource consumption.
By spending time exploring the surrounding regions, traveling with intention, and supporting local artisans and merchants, you contribute directly to preserving Civita for those who will follow.
Exploring Civita with LA ROQQA as your base
Though situated in Lazio, Civita di Bagnoregio integrates naturally into a broader exploration of southern Tuscany and the Maremma. The region is rich in tuff-built villages and Etruscan archaeological sites sharing similar geological and cultural characteristics.
If you're based on the Tuscan coast, the Maremma serves as an excellent hub for discovering both coastal and inland destinations. Day trips can easily encompass historic villages, nature reserves, and archaeological sites within reasonable driving distance.
Staying at LA ROQQA in Porto Ercole provides easy access to the Maremma while allowing for excursions toward central Italy’s lesser-known cultural sites, including Civita di Bagnoregio.